Coping in Copenhagen |
|
by
tasneemjd
My friend and I had just taken advantage of Iceland Air's
European-city-plus-three-days-in-Iceland deal by visiting
Reykjavik (see related story below). We went over all of the
cities that we had already visited (not an easy task as we were
both well-traveled) and finally chose Copenhagen, Denmark as our
European terminus.
Day Four: Two and a half hours from the Reykjavik airport, we
reached the Copenhagen Airport, the most anglophobic international
airport I have ever seen. There were no signs in any language
other than Danish, no easy-to-follow brochures or guides, and no
complete maps or instructions that made it clear how to use the
train and the new underground Metro system. Even pictures would
have been nice. It was also quite strange that there was no
customs line to go through, nor customs agent to whom I could have
delivered the speech: Hello, Dread my lord, Your leave and favour
to return to (Iceland); From whence though willingly I came to
Denmark [Hamlet, Act I, Scene 2ish].
My friend and I went to the DBS train ticket office and asked the
agent for two tickets to Kongens Nytorv. The agent handed us a
little slip of a receipt that only had a price and time stamp on
it and assured us that it would cover all the modes of
transportation we needed to take to get to where we wanted to go.
We found the track at which our train was supposed to arrive. When
a train eased into the station, we approached the conductor to
confirm the destination of the train and the validity of our
ticket:
"Can we use this ticket for this train to get to Kongens
Nytorv?"
(shrugs his shoulders) "I am not sure. Go ask that man."
We looked way down the track to see ticket-checker standing near
the train. By the time we reached him, the doors had closed and
the train pulled out. Turns out we could have taken that train. No
matter. There was another one coming in 20 minutes. So we waited.
And waited. And suddenly the screen that we had our eyes glued to
changed. A Danish woman came up to my friend and asked what was
going on. My friend explained that she didn't speak Danish and so
the woman repeated her question in English. They looked up at the
screen and then:
"Well, I think the train is delayed and is coming on another
track," said my friend.
"What?" asked the woman.
"Doesn't spor mean track?"
"Yes."
"And does forsinket mean delayed?"
"Yes."
"And does ndre mean changed?"
"Yes."
"Well, then, doesn't that mean that the train is delayed and
the track has changed?"
"Yes."
While my friend conducted an impromptu lesson in teaching the
Danes Danish, some young gypsy woman tried to enlist my help in
carrying her luggage onto the next train. She had one little
rollaway and one mammoth-sized, hardback suitcase. She indicated
that I should lug the gargantuan monstrosity even though I had two
bags of my own. I suggested she take the larger of the two and I'd
help her with the smaller. After I helped the woman onto her train
(with nary a "tak" in return) and my friend helped the
Danette translate the announcements, we ran from Spor 2 to Spor 1
only to find out that our train had disappeared completely from
the screen. Apparently, it was canceled and the next train was
going to arrive on Spor 2. Back over the bridge, fuming and hungry
and tired, we finally boarded a train that looked right,
transferred to a driver-less subway car swarming with some unruly
Danish children, and finally arrived at Kongens Nytorv, the
biggest city square in Copenhagen.
We were too disgruntled to appreciate the beauty of the old
buildings' architecture and the dainty lights brightening up the
evening, so we trudged ahead and found our new lodgings at Olsen
Residence. We were shown to our spacious, cheery room by some dude
who may or may not have worked there. We tossed our stuff down and
headed out in search of a meal because we had not eaten since that
morning. We found a lovely Italian/Mexican restaurant, Mamma Rosa,
with an attentive waiter and good food. Bellies full, we took an
enjoyable walk along Strget, 'the world's longest pedestrian mall'
and then settled in to our room with its high ceilings, tall
windows, lemon-colored walls, and soft beds.
Day Five: Brk! BYrk! Brk!
The local newspaper gave an explanation for the train debacle we
experienced in a report that reviewed the latest problems the
system had been facing. In response to the delays, canceled
trains, and erratic scheduling, the locals have dubbed the system,
"the blunderground." Knowing that the inconvenience and
confusion we had encountered at the train station was not the norm
somehow made us feel better.
We tried to find Rolf, the proprietor of Olsen Residence, to pay
him for the room but neither he nor anyone else could be found.
After breakfast at a little Quick-Stop caf, we strolled down
Strrget which is actually made up of five streets, all of which
are packed with stores, restaurants, and tourist shops and dotted
here and there with lovely fountains and squares. We checked our
e-mail for free at the Use-It information center and loaded
ourselves with maps, schedules, and tours. We reached the Tivoli
amusement park and garden before too long (new exchange rate is
one American step = seven Danish steps) and turned around to walk
along the serene canals. We sighed over the cloudy weather,
examined our various maps and train schedules, and considered our
options.
"I bet it's sunny in Sweden."
"OK, let's go there!"
We marched through the drizzly rain from Kongens Nytorv to the
Central Train Station near the Tivoli, bought our train tickets
($20 per person round-trip), and headed off to Malm, Sweden. The
train sped over the resund bridge (Fun Fact: Connecting Denmark
and Sweden, this is the world's longest single cable-stayed main
span bridge carrying both road and railway traffic!) and 35
minutes later, we were in sunny Sweden. We picked up some maps and
brochures from the train station (taking note that the visitor's
card had a duck featured prominently on it). We wandered around
the town engaging in our usual comparison shopping of postcards,
bank exchange rates, and Swedish licorice and fish. Lunch provided
by our very own Swedish chef consisted of cheeseburgers, fries,
and cokes. We browsed around a huge H&M store, bought every
flavor of Lkerol licorice, and took the scenic tour through the
Gamla begravnings platsen cemetery and the Slottstrgnrden garden.
We sat at the banks of a little pond where several ducks were
paddling around to greet the visitors - see, the visitor's cards
don't lie! We briefly looked at Malmhus Slott (a 16th-century
castle that looked like a plain, brick warehouse) and then headed
back to the train station (which looked like a 16th-century
castle).
Back in Copenhagen, we walked up and down the length of the main
street looking for a place to eat and finally decided upon a
shwarma dive. A creepy street performer sat next to us and threw
his woven bag down on the seat next to me. I could have sworn he
had some sort of pick-pocketing monkey stashed away in there and
so we quickly finished up our meal and headed over to Caf Europa
which overlooked the Storkespringvandet Fountain, a popular
meeting place during the day and apparently a handy urinal at
night. After warming ourselves up with some pricey caffeine, we
trekked back up to the Tivoli to watch the much-touted fireworks
display. By midnight, when we realized there was not going to be a
display of any kind, we returned to our room and called it a
night.
Day Six: Hillerd
We began our day with a walk to Christianhaven across the inner
harbor. We dodged the fleet of early morning commuters on bikes
and cars, crossed the bridge, and found our way to the "free
city" of Christiania - a little patch of alternative
lifestyle clinging fiercely to the 1970s. We looked at the
rickety, wooden sign and the ramshackle structures at the
entrance, snapped a picture, and ran away before any hippies from
Pusherstreet could get us hepped up on goofballs.
We strolled over and along the canals until we found a wonderful
coffee shop: Baresso near the Stork Fountain. Across from the
"see and be seen" Caf Europa, we were happily ensconced
in Baresso with our daily special of croissants and caf au lait,
seeing people walk through the square but not being seen. We did
some window-shopping around Mango and Ecco and Zara and made our
way to the Central Train Station. We asked for two round-trip
tickets to Hillerd, a little town 30km north of Copenhagen. The
agent gave us one yellow-colored, three-zone card, told us to clip
it five times to get to Hillerd and another five times to return
and that it would cover both of us. My friend and I found our Spor
and spent the next 25 minutes on the train wracking our brains
trying to figure out how five clips on a three-zoned card could be
evenly divided by two people. We were relieved that no
ticket-checker came by to boot us off the train and when we
arrived, we followed the signs to the gorgeous, elaborate
Fredicksborg Slot.
It turned out to be a bright, beautiful day and the sky was so
blue, the clouds so white, and the grass so green and inviting
that we lay down near the artificial lake amongst the ducks
(roughly 50 to 60) and just sunbathed for a while. The sun shined
brightly on the castle's towers and spires as we walked through
the courtyard and admired the intricate archways and sparkling
fountain. The castle grounds gave way to a lavish garden where we
watched school children fishing off a tiny wooden dock in some
shallow creeks with the sun glinting off of their white hair. Did
I mention that the sun was out that day? Fredicksborg Slot was
absolutely picturesque and charming and we had a wonderful time
there. After lunch at a nearby brasserie, we returned to
Copenhagen.
Upon our arrival, my friend and I took a break from walking by
perching up on the Stork Fountain like two lazy slugs watching all
the people walk by and commenting on most of them: hair, shoes,
attitude, manner of walk . . . nothing escaped our critical
observations and snarky comments. We spoke with a local resident
about the seemingly incomprehensible zone systems for the train
tickets and finally understood how it worked. We had a great
dinner at the Thai restaurant Wokshop where we shared various
dishes of assorted noodles and some very pleasant elderberry
juice. We followed our meal with a walk back to Christianhaven to
lounge around at Luftkastellet, a small man-made beach bar on the
banks of the Inderhaven (inner harbor) with a fantastic view of
Copenhagen. After night fell and a single firework went off over
the water, we decided to head back to our place with every
intention of returning the next day and just sitting on the beach
in the sun all day long. (cue the dramatic cliff-hanger music).
Day Seven: Helsingr
We began the day by exploring the side streets of Strget and
walking through the royal gardens of the city center alongside the
guards (wardrobe presumably provided by the "The Wizard of
Oz") at Rosenborg Slot. Creatures of habit, we had breakfast
at Baresso and walked to the train station to go to Helsingr
(making this our third afternoon NOT spent in Copenhagen). Smug
with our understanding of how the ticket system worked, we boarded
our train with no hassles, no delays, and no gypsies. Under an
hour later, we reached the northern-most part of Zealand
(supposedly - perhaps sarcastically - known as the "Danish
Riviera") and walked to Kronberg Slot, also famously known as
Hamlet's Elsinore Castle.
It was an appropriately gray and gloomy day as dark, threatening
clouds (cumulonimbus, I believe) gathered above the castle.
Although Kronberg Slot was not as imposing and grand as
Fredricksborg Slot, we still had fun reciting some Shakespeare
and, like the ber-nerds we are, posing with a homemade origami
skull that my friend made on the train. Realizing that the
"Alas, poor Yorrick" speech was made at a graveyard
rather than the castle's courtyard, we paid our homage to Hamlet
by acting mad. We strolled along the slice of the resund Strait
that links the North Sea and the Baltic Sea and then returned to
the train station just as the rain began to fall.
By the time we reached Copenhagen, it was raining steadily. We
dodged bicyclists, sharp umbrellas, and deceptively deep puddles
and opted for a nap before dinner. As luck would have it, we
finally ran into Rolf, our host, and paid him for the room. He was
laid-back, friendly, and very trusting because apparently he tells
his guests that before they leave, they should just leave the
money and the key on the bed. I spoke to some of the other guests
and they had the same experience we did: no Rolf at check-in time,
no sign of anyone during the stay, but happy with the clean,
comfortable rooms in the prime location for low prices.
We slogged through the downpour (my stupid umbrella was a little
busticated and kept allowing the rain to dribble down my neck) to
be rewarded with our new favorite restaurant: Sushitarian. It was
close by, the waitress was very friendly, and the food was
absolutely delicious. We had coffee at Mojo's across the street
where we spent the better part of the night until they started to
clean up around us and close. Back in our room, we packed,
chatted, and finally got to sleep . . . perchance to dream . . .
about ducks.
|
|